Put two tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat, then fry 150g chopped streaky bacon until it browns lightly and the fat begins to render.

Add two onions, two large carrots and half a neep, and fry, stirring regularly, until the onion is golden and the other vegetables are starting to soften.

Wash 250g red lentils then stir them until they’re well coated in fat, then add half a teaspoon ground mace or nutmeg, a pinch of salt, a good grind of pepper and the bay leaf. Then add two litres of vegetable chicken stock.

Bring to a simmer, then turn down the heat, partially cover the pan and leave to cook for about 45 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and the lentils have mostly broken down.

Remove and discard the bay leaf. Scoop out about a third of the soup, whizz it to a puree, then stir back into the pot. Adjust the seasoning to taste, and enjoy.

Felicity Cloake’s Perfect lentil soup from her How to cook the perfect series in the Guardian.