Take any wrapping off the cheese then put it back in its box. Peel and halve a clove of garlic, and smear the cut halves over the top of the cheese. Make half a dozen little holes in the rind and pour white wine into them (not much). Put the lid on and bake at 200°C for twenty-five to thirty minutes – it should be hot and bubbling.

Worth putting a tray underneath as it sometimes bubbles over.

Don’t make it in a dodgy oven – we tried it at an Air bnb in York and the oven was too hot – when we opened the door there was nothing left but charcoal.

Nigel says have it with boiled new potatoes but we like it with a baguette. Also pickles such as little gherkins. Also perfect with leftover cranberry sauce.